![]() Sorry for the confusion and I'll get with our team to make sure the page is clearer about why you need a bypass in a non-neutral setting. Unfortunately, there's really no way around it unless you up the load wattage to above 25W by either swapping out your LED bulb with an Incandescent or having a higher wattage LED bulb (very difficult though, to get a 25W LED bulb). Lutron sells a non-neutral switch as well, but as you can see, they also sell a bypass: If your load is over 25W, you do not need the bypass. This is because the Z-Wave module on the switch requires some wattage to work. The only reason you will need a bypass is if the wattage of the load you have your switch wired to is under 25W. The switch is designed to work with no-neutral wire present. Let me try to clarify as it sounds like we need to make the page a little more clear. Can I get these LUT-MLC things too? Will that fix my issue? Please help.Hey u/hops_on_hops, thanks for posting this and apologies for the extra steps needed in your case. It helped but didn’t fix it completely.and twice the price. Ow it pulses like the others still but both will stop after a few seconds. I swapped that switch out for a pro model dimmer and wired the neutral into it. The one that has only two cans pulses much faster and then only one turns off completely. ![]() 1 dimmer controls 8 cans, 3 set up in 3 bedrooms of 4 cans each, and a breakfast nook that has 2 cans. You can only see it at night when it is pitch black. BUT.when they turn off, they will pulse very faintly for a few seconds before finally shutting completely off. They dim perfectly and have no issues when on and on the app I can go from 100% down to 1% with no issues. My contractor put the same retrofit led cans in every room (do not know the brand but I do love them). I bought a Caseta Pro bridge and a bunch of PD-6WCL dimmers. Would this go on each circuit that's flickering? I'm happy to buy and try but it seems to not be readily available to consumers. None of my dimmers came with this and a post in this community stated it wasn't tested with Caseta. Hello, I am experiencing ghosting, or glowing of my LEDs lights, when turning off my lutron casseta switch. In another forum, it was suggested to use a LUT-MLC. That should bring the lighted switch back. This happens whether or not the kitchen lights are on. But if they are not, you can install one incandescent bulb, or you can wire a Lutron LUT-MLC dummy load/incandescent simulator, in parallel with the lamp (i.e. These lights are not affected my the kitchen lights with the Pro dimmer. When I turn on the switch, they light up full power. When I pull the FASS out on the switch, then they dim and eventually fade out. We put in a Caseta switch to control those lights. My electrician has not seen this before but admittedly has not had a lot of experience with the Lutron Caseta dimmers.Īnother oddity, I have four small LED stairway lights. Pulling out the FASS on say the LR lights lowers the flickering but does not eliminate. If I remove the Pro, no flickering anywhere. The only lights that flicker are 5" lights on a Caseta dimmer, but only when the pro is installed. If I remove a Caseta from the living room for example and put a regular switch back in, no more flickering in the LR. Lutron LUT-MLC, The Lutron LUT-MLC is a minimum load cap. The flickering is much more pronounced when the kitchen lights are dimmed but still happens when the kitchen lights are on full. lutron qs homeworks Lutron maestro 3 way dimmer wiring diagramLutron ctcl153p wiring diagram. When the kitchen lights are on, the lights in the living room, family room, and in the stairway area all flicker when off. ![]() When the kitchen lights are off, everything is fine. So, while the LUT-MLC could be a short-term solution it may result in. The LUT-MLC is not designed to handle the current spikes. Connect the other lead of the LUT-MLC to the switched hot (black) wire. The LUT-MLC is not rated for forward phase dimming controls, the forward phase control subjects the capacitor to sudden changes in line voltage that result in current spikes. Connect one lead of the LUT-MLC to the neutral (white) wire. The problem started when the Pro was installed in the kitchen. Installing the LUT-MLC in a load fixture or junction box 1. LR/FR/Stairs have FEIT LED 5" retrofit can lights (CELEDRT56/850/927/2), kitchen has a higher wattage 5" ( LEDR56/827 I believe) and the bedroom has 4". 1 Caseta Pro dimmer with neutral connected in the kitchen due to load being >150w. 4 standard Caseta dimmers - 1 in MBR, 1 in Family Room, 1 in Living Room, and 1 in a stair area. I have 5 Lutron Caseta dinners in my house. Looking for some assistance with a rather unique problem.
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